Sewing with Linen: Tips and Tricks (with Viking-Era Insights)

Linen, made from flax, is a beautifully breathable, durable fabric and a staple of Viking-era clothing. Whether you're crafting a modern summer tunic or an authentic Viking underdress or shirt, sewing with linen requires a bit of know-how. Here's a guide that blends modern sewing techniques with historically inspired Viking practices so you can work with linen confidently and authentically.

1. Pre-Washing and Preparing Your Fabric

Modern Tip:
Always pre-wash your linen before cutting. Linen shrinks with the first wash, so run it through a gentle warm wash and tumble or air dry. Then iron while damp to smooth out wrinkles and help with accurate cutting.

The Viking Way:
Though we can't know how the Vikings pre-treated their linen, they did bleach and soften it through sun exposure and repeated washing. However, it is always best to pre-wash your fabric, to have the best fit and that you avoid unnecessary shrinkage after you have already sewn your garment.

2. Choosing the Right Needle and Thread

Modern Tip:
Use a universal or sharp needle (size 80/12 or 90/14 depending on linen weight). For thread, polyester or cotton-wrapped polyester works well with machines. Make sure to get a stronger high quality thread to avoid breakage of seams.

The Viking Way:
Machine thread is fine for modern construction, but for historical sewing, use linen or wool thread (waxed with beeswax for strength and smoothness). Archaeological finds suggest that Viking garments were hand-sewn with plant- or animal-based threads, often dyed to match or contrast the garment. While plant-dyed threads are rare to find, you can opt to match your thread close to the color of your linen. If you attempt to plant dye your own thread, be aware that not all types of thread can be colored properly.

3. Cutting and Handling Linen

Modern Tip:
Iron the fabric before measuring the pieces, if you are using a store bought pattern, make sure to pin it properly, to cut properly. Cut linen in a single layer to avoid shifting, especially with loosely woven varieties. Use sharp shears or a rotary cutter, and secure with clips or pins to prevent distortion. Linen does thread, so be aware of that when you plan the seams.

The Viking Way:
Vikings maximized fabric use by cutting garments as rectangles and triangles. Recreate this with straight cuts and minimal waste. Avoid complex curves where possible—use geometric construction like tunics with side gores and square necklines. Since Vikings did not use zigzag stitches, they used folding seams, so before you cut your fabric, accommodate that method.

4. Stitching Techniques (Machine & Hand-Sewn Options)

Modern Tip:
Use a longer stitch length (2.8–3.2 mm) to avoid bunching. Press seams as you go to set them properly. For clean edges, overlock or use a zigzag stitch.

The Viking Way:
Zigzag stitching didn’t exist—use folded or felled seams for historical garments. You can fold the seam twice for precaution. Hand stitch with a running stitch for the seam line, whipstitch, overcast the raw edge, or use a flat-felled seam to encase fraying edges entirely. These methods are based on stitching found in Viking graves and settlement textiles. If you are going to a historical reenactment you can do a machine stitch and then do a decorative hand-sewn stitch that is straight with a bigger thread to mimic it was done by hand. Some people go full in with the historical reenactment, others do what is more practical and speaking from experience people won't be looking at your stitches.

5. Seam Finishing

Modern Tip:
Linen frays heavily—finish seams with:

• Serger/overlock

• Zigzag stitch

• French seams for light garments

• Flat-felled seams for strong finishes

The Viking Way:
Historical garments were often finished by hand with the following:

• Double-fold hem: Fold edge under twice and sew to hide the raw edge.

• Flat-felled seam: One seam allowance folded over the other and stitched down. Viking tunics from Birka and Hedeby show similar construction.

• Overcast edge with waxed linen thread for reinforcement.

6. Pressing Linen

Modern Tip:
Steam press as you sew. Use a pressing cloth to prevent shine or scorching. Press seams open or to one side depending on finishing method.

The Viking Way:
While Vikings didn’t use irons as we know them, smooth stones or heated tools could’ve helped press linen. For reenactment sewing, pressing with a warm iron helps replicate the clean, precise look that linen clothing may have had, especially among wealthier classes.

7. Hemming and Edge Finishing

Modern Tip:
Use a narrow double-fold hem for lightweight linen. Topstitch carefully and press afterward.

The Viking Way:
Keep hems simple—no facings or bias tape. Just fold the fabric over twice (from 0,5 to up to 2cm) and hand stitch with small, even stitches. Viking garments were made for durability, and such hems appear in archaeological finds from Hedeby and Gokstad.

 

8. Caring for Linen Garments

Modern Tip:

Wash our linen at 30 degrees with care. The linen can be steamed with various solvents, including perchlorethylene (professional cleaning). It should be ironed at maximum 150 degrees (2 dots). It must not be bleached, nor tumble dried.

The Viking Way:
Linen’s durability made it ideal for Viking everyday wear. For reenactment gear, washing by hand or machine on delicate helps preserve the stitches. 

Linen is one of the most rewarding fabrics to sew, whether you're making a modern summer piece or a Viking tunic. With its breathable weave and crisp finish, it elevates every project—but only if handled with care. By blending modern sewing skills with Viking-era techniques, you’ll not only produce beautiful linen pieces but also honor the fabric’s rich historical legacy.